Almost every deck conversation starts the same way: Doug fir, cedar, composite, or Ipe? There is no universally "best" material — each one trades off differently between upfront cost, maintenance, and how long it lasts. Here is the honest version of that trade-off, including a couple of things that surprise most homeowners.

Douglas fir

Douglas fir is the most budget-friendly decking material we install. It is a solid, economical choice for a straightforward deck, and it needs the same care as cedar — regular staining and sealing — to hold its color and hold up to Northwest weather over time.

Doug fir is a good fit if upfront cost is the priority and you are comfortable with the same upkeep rhythm as cedar.

Cedar

Cedar is the traditional choice: it has real wood grain and color, and it is naturally more resistant to rot and insects than most other softwoods. Here is what surprises people — cedar is not always the cheapest option. Knot-free cedar boards have gotten harder to source, and that scarcity can push cedar's price above composite, depending on the grade you want. Like Doug fir, it needs periodic cleaning and re-staining or sealing to keep its color.

Cedar is a good fit if you specifically want the look of traditional wood grain and do not mind the maintenance rhythm that comes with it.

Composite

Composite decking (boards made from a blend of wood fiber and plastic) is marketed on low maintenance — no staining or sealing. That part is true, but it is not the whole picture. Composite can warp and fade over time, especially in full sun, and composite absorbs moisture, which creates a real installation consideration: joist tape is often used to protect the framing underneath decking, but under composite it can trap moisture against the joist instead of letting it dry out, leading to hidden rot in the frame even though the decking itself won't rot. We are deliberate about where we do and do not use joist tape under composite for exactly this reason. Composite is also typically priced close to Ipe — not the budget option it is sometimes assumed to be.

Composite is a good fit if you want to avoid staining specifically, and you understand the warping, fading, and moisture trade-offs going in.

Ipe hardwood

Ipe is a dense South American hardwood, and it is the most durable material we install by a wide margin — decades of service life is normal, and it naturally resists rot, insects, and the warping and fading that affect composite. It is typically priced similarly to composite, not dramatically more, which makes it our top recommendation for most homeowners: similar cost to composite, without composite's downsides, and a much longer lifespan than cedar or Doug fir. Left unsealed, Ipe weathers to a silvery gray like other untreated hardwoods; oiled periodically, it keeps its rich brown color.

Ipe is a good fit for almost any budget that was already considering composite — you get more material for a comparable price.

How to decide

  • Tightest budget: Douglas fir is the most economical option.
  • Want traditional wood grain: cedar, with the caveat that knot-free grades can cost more than composite.
  • Considering composite: compare it to Ipe first — they are usually priced close, and Ipe does not warp, fade, or absorb moisture the way composite does.
  • Our default recommendation: Ipe hardwood, for the combination of price and lifespan.

We walk you through this trade-off on site, against your actual budget and the way you plan to use the space, rather than push whichever material is easiest for us. See our deck building page for more on how we frame and build with each of these.